“It’s gonna do clothes I like. If people like it, cool, if they don’t, they don’t.” proclaimed Liam Gallagher for the launch of his label Pretty Green in June 2009. Today, Gallagher’s simple desire to create clothes that he would wear has sparked the growth of one of Britain’s best-known brands. I was lucky enough to attend the Spring/Summer 2017 event this LC:M season at the Hoxton Holborn hotel where the new collection was unveiled amidst a room full of drinks, food, and good company.

The SS17 range was full of mustard yellow, cool grey, and classic British houndstooth. There was even a collaboration between two of Britain’s most iconic labels, John Smedley and Christy’s. The knitwear collaboration with Smedley was a marriage between the quality and class of Smedley with the cool edge of Pretty Green. The Christy’s collaboration produced a classic “bucket hat” in three of the season’s main colors. Pretty Green championed British craftsmanship this season with the two collaborations, as well as through their tailoring and outerwear which is crafted in British fabric mills including Abraham Moons and William Halstead.

The idea for this article came about during this event when I realized the versatility and charisma of the brand. Each piece was full of character, and the spirit of Gallagher’s confidence and candor resonated through the patterns, colors, and silhouettes; this made me want to try them out myself! I thought the clothes had the rare ability to look appropriate for occasions ranging from a rock concert to a wedding – so I decided to try my had at styling them somewhere in the middle.

Pretty Green is known for their simple pieces, with the occasional use of print or pop of colour. My printed ‘Stone Woodlands Floral Shirt’ is a standout piece in both the fit and the mixture of blues, greens, and reds in the floral pattern. The fit is comfortable but not baggy – the cut of the shirt slim, but not constricting. The ‘Aldwym Slim-fit Chinos’ were the perfect piece to accompany the bright top, their subdued burgundy colour complimenting the crispness of the shirt.

I loved the way the ease and comfort of the clothes were accentuated by the white trainers and leather portfolio bag, creating a casual, man-about-town feel to the outfit. The brand’s style and connection to 60s culture makes it a perfect choice to go with a vintage jacket such as this blue suede bomber. The beautiful thing is, these two pieces could just as easily be dressed up with a pair of oxford or monk strap shoes, and a blazer.

The brand has three different labels, London Mod, Black Label and Festival, featuring pieces perfect for all different tastes and occasions. Gallagher clearly knows his market and can create a collection that embodies classic British craftsmanship and elements of rock and roll style. The brand offers something for everyone, and is a shining example of the rising menswear culture in Britain.

Text, styling and editing: Nicholas Policarpo

Photography: Madeline Davies

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Dashing Tweeds: Interview with Guy

Celebrating British craftsmanship is at the heart of what Scot Street Style does as a platform and network for creatives to showcase their stunning work. Tailoring is one of those iconic British trades that has been anchored in our culture for centuries, and has evolved with each passing decade. Today, we look to the future and praise modernity by presenting to you the great work of the team at Dashing Tweeds.

Scot Street Style had the great opportunity to preview Dashing Tweed’s SS17 collection at London Collections: Men this season. Dashing Tweeds is fun, vibrant, of the best quality and meritorious of a place in British tailoring history. We have the privilege of learning more about the brand and its new collection through an interview with Guy the designer.

1. What was your inspiration for starting the brand, and where did the name come from?

My inspirations for starting Dashing Tweeds have come from several different directions. At the time of starting Dashing, I was working as a photographer in Savile Row. I was shooting the archives and current tailoring work of most of the tailors for the newly formed Savile Row bespoke organisation, and was absolutely delighted to see how exciting menswear used to be. The colours and textures of the cloths were much more interesting than I imagined and far more varied than fabrics currently in the tailors bunches. I was also cycling everywhere in London, and I was wearing a mixture of old tweed hand-me-downs and woven wools from Vivienne Westwood. I had this idea of creating a tailored city tweed which would combine heritage with technology, I thought a reflective tweed would be a perfect combination of old and new sportswear. A chance meeting with weave designer Kirsty McDougall then led to this becoming a reality and us setting up Dashing Tweeds

2. What do you think separates Dashing Tweeds from other brands focused on tailoring?

We have studied the way tailoring from the past solves problems of form and function such as how pleated jacket’s backs for shooting are made and the bias cuts of riding breeches. We have then been thinking about modern life and adapting the cuts to wear in today’s city. The bicycle has replaced the horse and the action elements of suits adapted to the multifarious tasks that are required in our networked lives. The main thing that separates us is that we are not beholden to any heritage. Being a new company, we can develop new shapes and fabrics which have a totally fresh esthetic.

3. What have your biggest challenges been in developing the brand?

Initially the hardest aspect was finding large scale mills to dye and weave smaller batches. We wanted to work with companies that could produce in volume when required, but also adapt to our niche demands.

Now we are finding that getting our brand out on the global market is the big challenge.

4. Have you had the pleasure of dressing anyone you particularly admire?

Not that I can think of right away but many of our customers are very talented musicians, writers and photographers whose work I admire greatly.

5. Your fabrics are woven in the Scottish borders. How do you think that elevates the quality of the garments?

The British quality of our fabrics are a vital part of the brand. The fact that so much care and expertise is applied at every stage of the process gives the cloth an unrivaled feel. The finishing of the fabric is also hugely important, and the fact that they are washed in water which originates from the river Tweed imparts something unique.

6. Have you ever come to Scotland to visit your weaving mills and, if so, how did you find it?

We have a team visit the mills and our yarn suppliers twice a year. It’s always a pleasure to talk to everyone involved in production and we often learn about new techniques and machines we can utilize. The fascinating thing about the mills is that they are always improving, although the basics of spinning, dying, weaving and finishing are unchanged for centuries the details are constantly modernizing.

7. Insouciant is a rare adjective to see used to describe a collection. What was the reason for using this particular word?

The perfect way to wear a tailored look is with a “devil may care”, relaxed attitude. This nonchalance imparts a feel that can best be described as insouciant. The summer months should be particularly laid back. With exquisite creative textiles and impeccable tailoring, you know you look good, so good that you don’t even have to try.

8. Your campaign images are unique for suiting. What made you choose this style of photography?

I chose to shoot our SS17 campaign in the studio with the dancer Lee Bridgeman. I wanted to convey a light, floating, effortless look.

9. Agnes Martin was a big inspiration for your designs this season. What about her work was inspiring to you?

All our seasonal designs start with woven fabrics. Kirsty and I both share a love of Agnes Martin’s work – the perfection of her compositions and interesting graphic forms, combined with her meditative philosophies seemed like a great starting point for our Insouciant Summer collection

10. Do you already have some ideas for the direction of your next collection?

We work more in advance than most companies as we have to design our own cloth as well as fashion styles. Next seasons collection is based on our experiences on the trip to China and some aspects of the works of Ai Weiwei.

It is clear that the creatives behind Dashing Tweeds take time and draw from profound sources of inspiration to create their collections, and are no stranger to British tailoring traditions. Their efforts to modernize tailoring and make it more adaptable show the progress which is being made in British fashion. The next time you think about investing in a new suit, Dashing Tweeds is here to help you stand out amongst tradition and create a beautiful, contemporary suit for modern life.

Photos and Text by: Nicholas Policarpo

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London Collections: Men

Day 4 Highlights

The last day of LC:M was perhaps one of the more diverse, with each designer displaying collections which were very personal and drawn from cultures all around the world. The mixture of textures and prints is prevalent, and the unexpected usage of luxury fabrics with casual, almost industrial silhouettes makes this next season seem to be one of experimentation.

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro 

The inspiration for Mihara Yasuhiro’s SS17 collection came from the work of photographer Karlheinz Weinberger, whose book “Rebel Youth” captured the individuality and cultural uniqueness of American teenage workers in the 1950s and 60s. The use of classic american textiles and prints like denim and camouflage, paired with 50s inspired hairstyling gave the whole collection a vintage feel. The length play and juxtaposition of different materials gave a sense of modernity to the designers debut London collection, and the bowling alley setting transported the guests back to the wondrous moments of strength and post-war pop culture of 50s America.

 Several; 

Several; merges a menswear label with a design consultancy and e-commerce store all under one roof. Their collection was a combination of simple silhouettes with bright colours and easy-going style. The wide-leg trouser is prevalent in this collection – another trend to look out for in the upcoming menswear season. Inspired by the Great North Road, a workman’s road, the new Several; collection is for the working man who wants to exude a sort of quiet luxury. The presentation’s cafe setting underlined the ease and comfort of the collection; the simple pieces versatile and cohesive.

John Smedley 

The world’s finest knitwear, as the staple British brand John Smedley is known, created a SS17 collection worthy of the title. With versatile pieces that work for men and women, the new collection was exemplary of master craftsmanship and keen eye for detail. Pale greens, soft greys, and bright corals were present in the collection paired with darker neutrals like coal and navy. As always, Smedley exudes ease and comfort in their designs, and any man lucky enough to get his hands on one of their pieces will enjoy supreme luxury courtesy of one of Britain’s finest labels.

Tourne de Transmission

CHOOSE YOUR ESCAPE ROUTE ->>> was the title of Tourne de Transmission’s SS17 presentation which featured billboard-size vinyl poster prints and discarded billboards displayed as they would be used in the third world. The elements of design found in the garments played on things like ‘ejector seat’ ripcords, playing on the idea that each piece was a different way of escape. Oversized rain ponchos and military parkas made in premium fabrics, biker jackets stripped of their hardware – all in an effort to juxtapose traditional silhouettes with unique uses of fabric and colour.

Songzio

Songzio’s “Ocean” collection was inspired by the artwork of the designer himself, and is a departure from his classically black aesthetic. Injections of marine colors such as light blues, sea greens and foamy yellows contrast with stark black pieces. Described as ‘the best menswear designer in South Korea’, his stunning and thoughtful work is displayed in London for the first time during the SS17 season. His designs have a fluidity and a clear aesthetic, which is accentuated by the swift brushstrokes and overlapping colours on the garments. His insertion of women’s pieces onto the runway shows his versatility as a designer – one to watch for the upcoming seasons.

Joshua Kane Bespoke

Not often does one see a print with decades old engravings used to make tailored, bespoke suits; but, the designer Joshua Kane brilliantly uses this and other fabrics to bring out his own young, cool personality and inject it into his designs. Accompanied by a live piano ballad, the runway featured designs for men and women, all of which were sleek and youthful, but with a refined touch only present in the work of a master craftsman. Joshua Kane is a unique tailor, in that he can mix classic with modern and still make it work.

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London Collections: Men 

Day 2 & 3 Highlights 

The second and third days of LC:M were a mix of classic design and innovative streetwear. British craftsmanship was celebrated, politics were discussed, and even more trends were set. Below are some highlights from days 2 and 3.

Daniel w. Fletcher 

The Brexit vote is quickly approaching, and Daniel w. Fletcher made it clear through his designs and his presentation that he wants to STAY. Taking the form of an outdoor protest outside 180 The Strand, Fletcher merged political activism and sleek design into one. The unorthodox method of presenting his work drew crowds outside the LC:M’s main show space, and people took notice. The clothing was clean, colorful sportslux with the blue of the European flag present throughout. The notion of comfort was consistent in each piece, and reflective of the comfort Fletcher feels within the EU. 

Pretty Green 

Mod and 60s style are back, and Pretty Green’s SS17: Black Label collection is quintessential cool, effortless British style. The label’s signature prints are mixed with cool grey, cream and inca gold. Pretty Green also collaborated with John Smedley to produce some stunning knitted pieces made in Britain, as well as with Chrsty’s London to make an exclusive “bucket hat” inspired by Brian Jones. The whole collection celebrates British craftsmanship and champions the unique culture that was cultivated by the musicians who inspire Pretty Green. The outerwear and tailoring are crafted with British fabric mills including Abraham Moons and William Halstead. Truly this is a shining example of what this country has contributed to fashion history. 

Boy by Boy London

In the coming years you might see war become all the more stylish when the new Boy by Boy London collection is snatched by the military for the protection it offers its wearers. For its 40th anniversary, the brand created clothing formed from the concept of each of us being watched, and involuntarily becoming government informants against ourselves. With four different design stories, Ground Force, Military, Tech and Leaders, the clothes offer more than just the signature, dark street look that we’ve all come to know and love from the brand. The collection embraces integrated garment technology such as RF blocking fabric and drone blocking linings, as well as the use of code as print. This collection is the definition of fashion forward. 

Lou Dalton x Jaeger

Just hanging out with a brew and some pals was the idea behind the new collaborative collection between Lou Dalton and Jaeger. The models played pool and watched a football match, all wearing the casual but classic clothing presented by the two brands. The blues and greens mixed with soft neutrals are present again in this collection and are clear favourites for the SS17 season. The beauty go this collection is really in its simplicity, and the fact that any man would look good sporting the jackets or trousers. 

Dashing Tweeds

Making tailoring fun and relaxed is a specialty of Dashing Tweeds, and the event held on the third day of LC:M was representative of this ideology. The name, ‘Insouciant Summer’, is reflective of the collection and the team that built it. Everyone was friendly and passionate about the clothing  the drinks were plenty, and the entire night was spent laughing and sharing the love of classic British tailoring. The use of colour and square patters were inspired by Scottish-born expressionist Agnes Martin’s work, and as the artist said “Beauty and perfection are the same. They never occur without happiness” 

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London Collections: Men

Day 1 Highlights:

Already there are clear trends appearing at this season of LC:M. London menswear seems to be moving away from fitting garments to a more relaxed feel, and colours like blue, beige, and forest green are seen frequently amongst the designers. Below are some photos and descriptions of some inspiring collection from day 1.

PHOEBE ENGLISH MAN

Phoebe English designed a collection with the ethos of the womenswear label in mind, creating relaxed garments executed with all-natural fibers. Cleverly using solids and some stripes as to not distract from the brilliant construction of the garments, each detail is clearly visible and stands out, showing how thoughtfully the collection was made. The collection includes long shirt-dresses for men as well as joggers and tailored shirts. This brand is cleverly blurring the lines between men and women’s clothing in a way that looks towards the future.

UNIVERSAL WORKS

The revolution will not be televised. This was the mantra for Universal Works this season, showing their collection in a combination format of digital and performance art. The models were not the classic, androgynous London faces we have come to expect, but were simply normal people. They mingled with the guests until “The Revolution Will Not Be Televised” by Gil Scott-Heron played, and then they all gathered in the front to present the clothing. This seemed to portray the brand ethos brilliantly, capturing the essences of a collection meant to be inclusive of everyone. Simple but well-made garments were the focus, which included relaxed fit, wide-leg pants and comfortable shirts, and the styling gave the collection a younger feel.

NIGEL CABOURN

Nigel Cabourn’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection was inspired by a group of soldiers called the “Desert Rats”, and the clothes showed this inspiration in the choice of colours and textiles. With sand covering the floor and army gear decorating the space, it felt like the most stylish of army barracks. Each piece was durable and hearty just like the soldiers who inspired them. Camouflage was a staple in the collection, and each piece seemed comfortable, yet practical. This was another presentation that featured less-typical models, reminding us that it is everyday people who serve to protect our borders.

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Our good friends over at HeeHaw have produced this very cool video for Visit Scotland where our other friends, Kestin Hare and Harris Tweed, have been featured along side Scot Street Style in the year of Innovation, Architecture and Design.

Take a look

VISIT SCOTLAND // YEAR OF INNOVATION, ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN 2016 from Heehaw on Vimeo.

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Last month, as a friend of New York City’s Tartan week, to celebrate Robert Burns’ birthday, Gordon was asked to recite “A Bottle and a Friend”.

Here’s the video which includes our friends, Tristan Cameron Harper, professional ice hockey player and model and Howie Nicholsby, Celebrity kilt designer and owner of 21st Century Kilts in Edinburgh.

See the original post on the NY Tartan Week official website and have a look at Gordon’s full recital of the poem in Dalkeith Country Park outside The University of Wisconsin’s lovely building.

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View the original blog post over on Greener Scotland

Greener living can enrich every part of our lives, and we can all play our part. From the clothes we wear to the buildings we inhabit, we can raise awareness and actively participate in environmental sustainability, reducing carbon emissions and making things last, starting right here in Scotland.

Vintage with a Modern Twist, the title of our recent themed evening with Blind Pig Cider, tapped in to a current and increasingly relevant school of thought, across the spectrums of sustainability and artistic expression. At our events, we fill spaces with creatives, and the creative spaces we select are a vital part of enhancing and enriching the experience.

We see this renaissance and restoration in the fabric of architecture. Take the buildings Glasgow, for example, the industrial heart of this land, ripped out post WWII and replaced with soulless concrete monoliths, only to be destroyed a few damp-filled decades later. As the demolition dust settles, the original breathtaking beauty of a bygone era is revealed, with those alluring old tenements and characterful factories ready for revamp, repair and rejuvenation.

Here in Edinburgh, our capital city, we are blessed with a rich and living history of spaces and places, lovingly conserved, with hardly a concrete block in sight, to blight the extraordinary Old and New Town cobbled streets.

This increasing awareness of the value of preservation is a refreshing and inspiring antithesis, to the insidious creeping of an all-consuming disposable society, from single-use indestructible plastics to fast fashion.

With these principles in mind, we ventured forth to find the right venue for this particular event, and returned to the Biscuit Factory in Leith, a raw, organic, industrial hive with echoes of Brooklyn or Berlin. This unique blank canvas harks back to the time of the speakeasys and underground establishments of days gone by. And who to awaken this dormant dreamspace? It simply had to be the supremely talented team from Stewart Christie & Co, Scotland’s oldest bespoke tailors, driven by the vision of Vixy Rae. We attended their new ownership launch and worked together on the epic Master of Ceremony shoot so collaborating once more for our evening of Vintage with a Modern Twist felt like a natural part of a trilogy. Vixy transformed the space, breathing life and warmth into it by draping rescued authentic Scottish textiles around the old pillars, and hanging poster-sized imagery, celebrating the craft of the cloth.

We’ve witnessed a resurgence of the value of well made garments and vintage stores in recent years, fuelled by the thrift required in a recession, alongside a highly educated and eco-savvy generation. But we have not seen a treasure trove to compare to the authentic archives of Stewart Christie & Co, spanning three centuries of exquisitely tailored clothing, and we are very fortunate to have this quality of craftsmanship in our country.

Our vintage theme was set, now for that modern twist! Award-winning GSA graduate KellyDawn Riot is a highly sought after pioneer of a new wave of ethical fashion designers. Supported by the Love Your Clothes campaign and Zero Waste Scotland, she embarked on a 6 month mentorship with Queen of upcycling, Orsola De Castro. It was at this time she produced her second collection ‘Formication’, an ethical menswear collection consisting of artisanal engineered prints produced from­ start to finish in Scotland. Pieces are made using remnants from local Scottish mills or natural fabrics such as cottons and linens, making them strong and durable, while the eco friendly printing techniques and the attention to detail ensure that each piece is a treasure: inspired by nature, designed for life. We were thrilled to be able to showcase Kelly’s latest collection, fresh from the runway of Brighton Fashion Week, to a captive audience individuals actively participating in a lifestyle of sustainable clothing.

The evening was a triumph, as like-minded creatives gathered in celebration of our heritage, enhanced by contemporary thought.

Onward!
Gx

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Last week, we had the privilege of putting together and working with an incredible team of talented models, stylists, photographers, bloggers to produce the fashion shoot with our partners at Burt Greener for Edinburgh Fashion Week.
Now in its second year, Edinburgh Fashion Week (EFW) is making a highly anticipated return to the city next month to inspire Scottish shoppers and style connoisseurs. Hosted from Saturday 5th – Sunday 13th March, the must-attend annual event will showcase the hottest Spring/Summer looks, emerging designers and top retailers from across the city centre.

Our photoshoot for the campaign was fantastic fun, and despite the weather conditions on the day we were able to capture some amazing spring/ summer photo’s.

Photographer
Dominic Martin @domdommartin

Models
Tristan Cameron-Harper @tristancameronharper
Katy Matsetse @ktmtss
Simone Murphy @simonegmurphy
Paul Keenan @thekeenanone

Style Team
Lead Stylist
Emma Jane McVitie @ejmstylist

Hair Stylist
Sophie Laidlaw @sophielaidlawhair

Assistant
Conor Cullen @conorcullen

MUA
@jakmorganmakeup

Blog
Nicholas Policarpo @nicholaspolicarpo

Client
@edin_events

Production
Scot Street Style @scotstreetstyle

We received some wonderful coverage across National and Local media:

The Scotsman
http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/culture/fashion/moonwalk-organisers-stage-their-first-ever-fashion-show-in-edinburgh-1-4023803

Ion Magazine
http://www.ionmagazine.co.uk/edinburgh/win/win-vip-package-two-edinburgh-fashion-week/

We even got on the front page of The Edinburgh Evening News

Tickets to Edinburgh Fashion Week go on sale today (8th February) on the Essential Edinburgh website www.edinevents.com, with single show and VIP packages available. Prices range from free – £25 and early bird tickets will be available from 8th – 19th February.

In other news, Scot Street Style alongside Mark Greenaway, Colan Mehaffey from National Trust For Scotland, featured in the Marketing Edinburgh results of the city centre marketing campaign, This is Edinburgh.

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Click here to read the full article on the BBC website or copy and paste this link into your browser. http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20160114-is-it-the-end-of-the-scottish-cringe

Excerpt

Today, young creatives are rehabilitating traditional textiles and designs. Siobhan MacKenzie and 21st Century Kilts, for example, re-interpret the kilt using unlikely fabrics like denim and leather. They are among the designers championed by Scot Street Style, who describe themselves as brand ambassadors for Scotland.
Scottish fashions (Credit: Credit: Alamy)
At left, Howie Nicholsby of 21st Century Kilts models his own designs; at right, Judy R Clark’s designs incorporate elements like Scottish lace and tartan (Credit: Alamy)
Scot Street Style was born in the year of the Referendum, says founder Gordon Millar. The vote “made people look at themselves and start to think, ‘what does it mean to be Scottish in the 21st Century?’”, he says.
He wanted to harness this energy into a positive movement. “Historically, we’ve had this sense of inferiority and this was an opportunity to smash that,” he says.

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