London Collections: Men
Day 4 Highlights
The last day of LC:M was perhaps one of the more diverse, with each designer displaying collections which were very personal and drawn from cultures all around the world. The mixture of textures and prints is prevalent, and the unexpected usage of luxury fabrics with casual, almost industrial silhouettes makes this next season seem to be one of experimentation.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
The inspiration for Mihara Yasuhiro’s SS17 collection came from the work of photographer Karlheinz Weinberger, whose book “Rebel Youth” captured the individuality and cultural uniqueness of American teenage workers in the 1950s and 60s. The use of classic american textiles and prints like denim and camouflage, paired with 50s inspired hairstyling gave the whole collection a vintage feel. The length play and juxtaposition of different materials gave a sense of modernity to the designers debut London collection, and the bowling alley setting transported the guests back to the wondrous moments of strength and post-war pop culture of 50s America.
Several; merges a menswear label with a design consultancy and e-commerce store all under one roof. Their collection was a combination of simple silhouettes with bright colours and easy-going style. The wide-leg trouser is prevalent in this collection – another trend to look out for in the upcoming menswear season. Inspired by the Great North Road, a workman’s road, the new Several; collection is for the working man who wants to exude a sort of quiet luxury. The presentation’s cafe setting underlined the ease and comfort of the collection; the simple pieces versatile and cohesive.
The world’s finest knitwear, as the staple British brand John Smedley is known, created a SS17 collection worthy of the title. With versatile pieces that work for men and women, the new collection was exemplary of master craftsmanship and keen eye for detail. Pale greens, soft greys, and bright corals were present in the collection paired with darker neutrals like coal and navy. As always, Smedley exudes ease and comfort in their designs, and any man lucky enough to get his hands on one of their pieces will enjoy supreme luxury courtesy of one of Britain’s finest labels.
Tourne de Transmission
CHOOSE YOUR ESCAPE ROUTE ->>> was the title of Tourne de Transmission’s SS17 presentation which featured billboard-size vinyl poster prints and discarded billboards displayed as they would be used in the third world. The elements of design found in the garments played on things like ‘ejector seat’ ripcords, playing on the idea that each piece was a different way of escape. Oversized rain ponchos and military parkas made in premium fabrics, biker jackets stripped of their hardware – all in an effort to juxtapose traditional silhouettes with unique uses of fabric and colour.
Songzio’s “Ocean” collection was inspired by the artwork of the designer himself, and is a departure from his classically black aesthetic. Injections of marine colors such as light blues, sea greens and foamy yellows contrast with stark black pieces. Described as ‘the best menswear designer in South Korea’, his stunning and thoughtful work is displayed in London for the first time during the SS17 season. His designs have a fluidity and a clear aesthetic, which is accentuated by the swift brushstrokes and overlapping colours on the garments. His insertion of women’s pieces onto the runway shows his versatility as a designer – one to watch for the upcoming seasons.
Joshua Kane Bespoke
Not often does one see a print with decades old engravings used to make tailored, bespoke suits; but, the designer Joshua Kane brilliantly uses this and other fabrics to bring out his own young, cool personality and inject it into his designs. Accompanied by a live piano ballad, the runway featured designs for men and women, all of which were sleek and youthful, but with a refined touch only present in the work of a master craftsman. Joshua Kane is a unique tailor, in that he can mix classic with modern and still make it work.